Thanks!

It’s not that hard really. I made about half a dozen Seiko 5 mods and small repairs with basic tools.

I’d say:

• Get a cheap watchmakers toolkit, it’s more than enough for this purpose, plus some good wire cutters, Rodico watchmakers putty and lint free cotton pads for nail polish.
• get familiar with the terminology so you know what to look for and which ones you need (eg. movement, stem, crown, dial, hands, chapter ring, case, crystal, bezel, bezel insert etc.)
• because the Seiko 5 modding scene is huge, start with a cheap standard Seiko movement like an NH35 or NH36, and search for compatible case, dial and hands. Most aftermarket dials are the Seiko 5 standard 28.5mm, so most hands and cases assume this diameter.
• A good starting point would be an SKX007 base as it was the king of modding. Unfortunately, like all “real” Seiko 5s, it’s not made anymore, but there are a truckload of compatible parts in a infinity of styles still being made, including cases.
• you can get cheap but random quality parts on AliExpress, or very high quality but rather expensive parts at reputable online shops like Dagaz Watch, DLW Watches, Namoki Mods or Lucius Atelier.
• The hardest part by far is fitting the hands, especially the seconds hand, the rest is trivial in comparison. Even cutting the stem to length.
• There are video tutorials everywhere on YouTube to help you on the nontrivial bits (inserting and removing the stem, fitting the crown, fitting the hands etc).

Don’t hesitate to ask more questions ;)

Thank you!

Watches and coffee, name a more iconic duo :D

Thanks for the feedback!

I’m pretty happy with the transparencies tbh. Although on mine, there seems to be two sides, one that gives a fuzzy dirty effect with a lot of stray toner around the actual print (looks like static), and the other side that gives perfectly crisp prints. Unfortunately I can’t really tell the sides apart.

Apart from that small speck of dust that prevented the transfer at the top left of the logo, the sheet came out perfectly clean, the totality of the toner was transferred to the dial. For PCB transfers where you could probably keep the sheet intact (I had to cut mine to fit between the applied indices), that would also mean the sheet would be almost indefinitely reusable.

Thank you so much!

Thanks <3

If you can clamp a whole PCB on the bed, that’s a perfect application ;)

Here you go ;) https://lemm.ee/post/35636122

I 100% agree with you, a professionally made dial is a work of art and should be absolutely perfect at any magnification. This is just a fun, cheap summer watch project for my own enjoyment ;)

The best looking alternative would have been to have the logo made by electroforming. They look perfect and very professional. Unfortunately the MOQs are usually quite large and therefore expensive, I couldn’t justify spending half the price of this project just on a logo (even if I had enough spare logos for several lifetimes).

It’s a tool first and foremost. If you’re professionally using a power drill all day everyday, you’ll want a very good one that’s powerful, reliable and comfortable to use. If you professionally type all day everyday, you’re absolutely entitled to use a keyboard that perfectly fits your preferences in terms of feel, comfort, feedback and layout.

Ah perfect timing indeed.

The key takeaway indeed matches yours: it’s not a Voron despite being heavily inspired by it, there are some annoyances but at this price point it’s forgivable and most of them seem to have workarounds (someone in the comments suggested letting the machine fully soak heat before performing Z-offset calibration), the open-source nature might bring a lot of third-party upgrades in the future.

Also, the reviewer’s unit has some abnormal wear on the belts. Does it match your experience?

All in all, it seems to be a decent budget CoreXY printer with a very large volume at 1/3 the price of an LDO Voron kit + PIF parts, with a much quicker assembly but some potential pitfalls.

If this eventually becomes the Ender 3 of CoreXY printers that can be frankensteined into a a much higher quality printer over time, I’m all for it.

Than you so much for such a detailed analysis!

For reference, I’ve had a (heavily modded) Creality Ender 3 V2 for a few years, and I’ve hit a limit in terms of speed and quality.

The filament path between the extruder and hotend is poorly-constrained, making it a pain to load The auto-z calibration is often just a smidge off It uses a custom nozzle/heater

If it’s possible to install a Stealthburner instead of the standard extruder/hotend combo, it might solve most of these issues. Maybe some people are working on a V6 or Mk8 style hotend (I have a metric fuckton of Mk8 nozzles laying around)…

The fans are absurdly loud. All of them.

OK Noctua upgrades then. Compared to an already absurdly loud Ender 3, is it worse?

The mainboard is effectively a BTT CB1 and Fystec Cheetah on a single board Their software customizations are of dubious quality

Would a Voron-style mainboard + RPi + standard Klipper solve these issues or are there fundamental incompatibilities?

Thanks!

BallisticNG. Incredible WipEout homage, Linux native, VR compatible, runs locked at 60fps on Deck. Fun tracks, cool ships, nice lore. Physics and mechanics are by default more geared towards classic PSX games (1, 2097, 3), with “modern” physics and mechanics (Pure/Pulse/HD with absorb, barrel roll etc.) getting an overhaul in the next version.

Because they’re out of stock now.

You’re welcome :) I love Orient and own a couple, and they also have some stunning pieces in their mid-to-high end Orient Star range.

Seiko in general has gone up in price a lot in recent years. The cheap and cheerful Seiko 5 were killed and resurrected as a mid-range sub-brand, and mid-range (like Presage etc) are now pushed twice the price they were a few years ago. There are no entry-level mechanical Seikos anymore.

Orient seems to be the last true Japanese manufacturer that still offers sub-$150 mechanical watches.

Best “Classic WipEout” homage I ever played.

Do you know someone willing to share his MyCanal account? That’s what I do because I still want to watch F1 but I’m not giving a cent to those fascists at bolloré.

Canal+ uses the the international feed though, live or replays. Tobacco ads are only blurred for highlights.

Vita3k + WipEout 2048 + HD DLC + Fury DLC = almost Omega Collection on PC 🤣

Runs great on Steam Deck too.

BallisticNG

Hey fellow WipEout junkie 👋